Day 12 – Mustique To Willilabou, St. Vincent

This morning we dingy to shore for provisioning. Again we are searched for cameras. This time, we overhear some other french yachties complaining about it and the security guys say that the restrictions are only in effect this week. They imply that it’s because a VIP is “on-island”. The frenchman asks who the VIP is, and the security folks say that information is “on a need to know basis, and you don’t need to know”.

When we got back to the boat, we poach some Wifi and google “mustique security” and find out that Princess Kate is vacationing there and they don’t want any paparazzi to sneak in and get photos.

They have the best grocery store on Mustique that we’ve seen for a couple of weeks. It’s probably only 40 FT square, but loaded with very nice foods and drinks of all types. Outside by the beach, a man also has the best fruit stand we’ve seen on the trip.

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We batten the hatches and start our serious northerly travel back toward Martinique.

The trade winds blow mostly from the east and northeast. We need to go back northeast, so we will be sailing close hauled to get back. Because this boat doesn’t tack into the wind very well, ┬áin cases where we would normally tack upwind, we’ll probably motor straight into the wind because we don’t have time for tacking.

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We decide to shoot for midway up St. Vincent – a harbor called Willilabou.

We sailed close hauled as high into the wind as possible, attempting to clear the northern tip of Bequia. We don’t make it around the corner, and because we are limited by time, we start the motor, drop the sails and motor (cheat) around the tip of Bequia. As soon as we clear the island, we raise the sails again.

It’s quite gusty – we see at least 34 knts, and we are double reefed. Between Bequia and St Vincent we get Atlantic swells in the 8-10 FT range. Lots of launching off of swells and waves spraying the helm.

When we get near Willilabou, we motor into the harbor. Quite aggressive boat boys here, and (as stated in the guidebook) they come out a couple of miles and try to flag us down. This is in contrast to Mustique, where they control all the waters around the island and there are no boat boys.

Sheven is at the helm, and we let the boat boys assist us grab a mooring and tie our stern to a piling. We are totally covered in salt crystals, so everyone jumps in the water for a swim. The water is about 50 FT deep, but we can see the bottom.

We discover we are out of water on the boat. The gauge is faulty and almost instantly drops from a reading of half full to empty.

There is a “senior” boat boy (really a 50ish year old man) who seems to be calling the shots here. He is in a skiff with no motor – only oars, but he is rowing around telling the other boat boys and everyone else what to do.

The Dock at Willilabou. Photo by Sheven
The Dock at Willilabou. Photo by Sheven

There is a water hose at the end of the dock, but we can’t reach it. With Sheven at the helm again, the senior boat man starts giving us instructions and we tie two of our dock lines (the only available lines we have on Ginger) together to the stern and we back up until the line barely reaches the dock. The hose barely reaches us. Water just barely trickles out of the hose, but it makes us happy to have water to wash the salt off our bodies.

Loren was the only one of us who made it to shore at Willilabou.  He bravely held the hose while drinking a beer. Photo by Sheven.
Loren was the only one of us who made it to shore at Willilabou. He bravely held the hose while drinking a beer. Photo by Sheven.

We met the most polite boat boy here. They are so nice, the ladies buy some jewelry.

Photo by Sheven
Photo by Sheven

Willilabou is where parts of Pirates of the Caribbean were filmed. They have kept parts of the set and other momentos from the film. Unfortunately, we got into the harbor late and were too tired to go ashore for sightseeing. Loren was the only person who made it ashore during water negotiations.

Awesome sunset, and we’re starting to get sad that our trip is reaching it’s end.

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